Why we think 'cockney classic' pie and mash should be given protected status

London’s culinary heritage may be on the verge of securing a major victory as government ministers throw their support behind a petition to grant the city’s iconic pie and mash dish protected status.

In a debate at Westminster Hall on Tuesday (22 October), the Conservative MP for Basildon and Billericay, Richard Holden, called for pie and mash to get Traditional Specialty Guaranteed (TSG) status.

The beloved meal, often considered the quintessential working-class food of East London, could soon join the ranks of other culturally significant foods like Melton Mowbray pork pies and Cornish pasties.

Holden said: “The pie, mash and liquors are freshly made to authentic family-own recipes passed down through generations like precious heirlooms. Something that, let’s say in Italy or France, would be instantly recognised as something worth celebrating and preserving.”

Adding: “It is a staple of Cockney cuisine moving out to places like the east of England and into Kent as the Cockney diaspora moved post-war. That’s the reason I have pie and mash shops in Basildon today, and we are seeking recognition to safeguard the heritage and to promote it both here and internationally.”

The motion received a positive response from environment minister Daniel Zeichner, who said the government would ‘go big’ on regional food, and would ‘warmly welcome a formal application’.

This push for recognition comes amid growing concerns that traditional pie and mash shops—once a staple on the streets of London—are rapidly disappearing due to changing tastes and rising rents.

Fans of the dish argue that giving it protected status will help preserve the recipe and craftsmanship, ensuring that future generations can enjoy this time-honoured comfort food.

The history of pie, mash and liquor

The origins of pie and mash trace back to the 19th century when it became a popular and affordable meal for dockworkers and the working-class communities of East London. Typically consisting of a meat pie served with mashed potatoes and a parsley-based liquor sauce (originally made with eel stock), the dish reflects the city’s history and its unique working-class culture.

The traditional shops, with their white-tiled walls and marble counters, became institutions in neighbourhoods like Bethnal Green, Walthamstow, and Hackney. Many have been family-run for generations, adding a sense of nostalgia and local pride to the food.

However, in recent decades, the number of pie and mash shops has dwindled, leading to fears that this unique slice of London's history could be lost. There are fewer than 30 such shops still operating across London, with many of them closing in the face of gentrification and economic pressures.

Protected status would mean that only pie and mash shops adhering to traditional recipes and preparation methods could label their product as authentic London pie and mash.

This designation would not only celebrate the dish's historical and cultural significance but also ensure that the quality and heritage of pie and mash are preserved.

Food historian Dr Emily Richardson, emphasises that pie and mash is more than just a dish. “It’s a reflection of a time when food had to be simple, hearty, and affordable,” she says. “By securing protected status, we’re recognizing the importance of this meal to London’s social and cultural fabric.”

While support for the petition is growing, securing protected status won’t be an easy feat. The process involves rigorous documentation, including evidence of the dish’s historical origins and its geographical connection to London.

Additionally, there must be broad agreement on what constitutes the "authentic" version of pie and mash, which could spark some debate.

A slice of the city’s history

If granted protected status, pie and mash could see a revival, not just in London but across the UK. It would help ensure that future generations know and appreciate the dish, while also boosting the remaining pie shops and making them tourist destinations for those wanting to experience a real taste of London history.

In a city that’s constantly evolving, pie and mash remains a comforting reminder of the past. The push for protected status is not just about safeguarding a meal but preserving a slice of the city’s identity, one steaming plate at a time.