Pie and mash shops near me: The working-class history behind the iconic East End dish

London is a city rich in history, from its landmarks to its food, and few dishes are as synonymous with its working-class roots as pie and mash.

If you’ve ever wandered through the heart of the East End, you’ve likely stumbled across one of the city's iconic pie and mash shops, serving up hot plates of comfort food.

This humble dish has been a cornerstone of London’s culinary scene for over a century, so to celebrate Food and Drink Month, we’re delving a little bit further into its history.

Read more: London food and drink news

The Birth of Pie and Mash

Pie and mash originated in London’s East End during the 19th century, at a time when the city was undergoing rapid industrial growth.

The new industrial working class needed cheap, filling food that could be easily found in the busy streets.

Enterprising vendors and small food shops began selling pies, originally filled with meat, offal, or even eels, which were then plentiful in the River Thames.

Eel pies were particularly popular, given the abundance of eels and the ease of preserving them. They were often paired with mashed potatoes, creating a hearty, inexpensive meal.

As the availability of eels declined and beef became more affordable, pie fillings shifted to minced beef, creating the traditional dish we know today.

The humble combination of a minced beef pie, creamy mashed potatoes, and a parsley-based sauce known as liquor became a staple of East End life.

A Dish Rooted in East End Culture

By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, pie and mash shops had sprung up all over East London.

These shops quickly became a fixture in the daily lives of the working-class residents, offering affordable meals that could sustain the many laborers who lived in the area.

The food was simple, satisfying, and above all, affordable—an essential quality in a rapidly growing city where many lived hand to mouth.

One of the most famous names in the pie and mash scene is Manze’s, which opened its first shop on Tower Bridge Road in 1902.

Founded by Michele Manze, an Italian immigrant, the shop became a symbol of the enduring spirit of the East End. More than a century later, Manze’s is still going strong, continuing to serve generations of Londoners with its traditional recipes.

The Magic of Liquor

No pie and mash dish is complete without liquor, the signature sauce that adds a unique flavour to the meal. Originally made from the water used to cook eels, liquor has evolved over the years.

Today, it’s typically made from parsley, flour, and butter, giving it a mild, creamy taste that perfectly complements the savoury pie and mashed potatoes.

Despite its name, liquor doesn’t contain alcohol—it’s simply a term that harkens back to its eel-based origins.

For those who enjoy an extra kick, many pie and mash aficionados will tell you that chilli vinegar is a must.

A simple but tangy condiment made from vinegar infused with spicy chillies, it adds a sharp, fiery twist to balance the richness of the dish.

Drizzling chilli vinegar over your pie and mash has become a time-honoured tradition in the East End, giving this classic dish a touch of heat that elevates the flavours.

Jellied eels

For the more adventurous eater, many traditional pie and mash shops also serve jellied eels, another dish deeply connected to London’s working-class history.

Boiled and then left to cool in their own gelatine, jellied eels are an acquired taste but remain a cultural icon in their own right.

Decline and Revival

Like many traditional British foods, pie and mash experienced a decline in popularity during the mid-20th century.

As London’s culinary landscape diversified, with waves of immigration introducing new and exciting cuisines, some of the old favourites fell out of favour.

However, pie and mash has never truly disappeared. It’s experienced something of a revival in recent years, particularly among Londoners who crave nostalgia and authenticity in their dining experiences.

Today, pie and mash shops are still dotted around the city, though they are far fewer in number.

Best pie and mash shops near me

The 10 best pie and mash shops in London, according to Time Out are:

1. M Manze

2. G Kelly

3. Arments Pie & Mash

4. Goddards at Greenwich

5. F Cooke

6. Maureen’s Pie and Mash Shop

7. B.J’s Pie and Mash Shop

8. Cockney’s Pie and Mash Shop

9. Noted Eel and Pie House

10. Eastenders Pie and Mash