The David and Goliath tale of London’s famous floating bookshop

Paddy Screech and Jonathan Privett have battled everything from eviction notices to Covid to keep their treasured book barge in King’s Cross open.
Paddy Screech and Jonathan Privett’s Word on the Water bookbarge in King’s Cross. Credit: ShutterstockPaddy Screech and Jonathan Privett’s Word on the Water bookbarge in King’s Cross. Credit: Shutterstock
Paddy Screech and Jonathan Privett’s Word on the Water bookbarge in King’s Cross. Credit: Shutterstock

When wandering along the towpath of Regent’s Canal, you might hear the sound of a siren or an old man coughing.

Don’t be alarmed – it’s probably just Jasper the parrot using his favourite ploys to get attention.

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The story of this floating bookshop, housed on a 1920s Dutch barge, is as gripping and heartwarming as any of the novels it sells.

Few shops can claim to be as adored by their customers.

In fact, one of the biggest problems they experience is “reverse shoplifting”, people putting donations on the shelves in the wrong order.

It hasn’t all been smooth sailing, however.

If it wasn’t for the support of their customers, the business would have sunk twice.

The bookshop was threatened with eviction before finding its home in Granary Square. Credit: Shutterstock.The bookshop was threatened with eviction before finding its home in Granary Square. Credit: Shutterstock.
The bookshop was threatened with eviction before finding its home in Granary Square. Credit: Shutterstock.

Owners Paddy Screech, an Oxford-educated boat dweller, and Jonathan Privett, who  Screech describes as an “artist and anarchist”, met and dreamed up the idea whilst walking along the canal.

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At the time, Privett had recently been arrested for selling books on the street without a license, while Screech was doing social work and caring for his mother.

A friend, French artist Stephane Chaudat, provided the 50-foot boat in 2009 in exchange for becoming a partner and the shop was born a year later.

“When it came into our hands it was a houseboat and we kept the woodburning stove,” Screech said.

“We constructed makeshift bookshelves ourselves from wine boxes, scaffolding and wood stain.”

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In the beginning, berthing laws forcing boats to move every two weeks almost drowned the business.

“Of the fifteen moorings we used along Regent’s Canal, only two or three had any footfall at all,” he continued.

“Mostly they were on deserted stretches of the river with nothing but abandoned factories.

“There were plenty of long, thin months where we had to cut down on food and choose between coffee or cigarettes.”

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In desperation, they moored up next to Paddington station and refused to move, despite being peppered with fines and eviction notices from the Canal and River Trust.

To their surprise, more than 6,000 people signed a petition to save them, including authors Michael Bywater and Elizabeth Speller.

The Canal and River Trust relented and offered them a permanent mooring on Granary Square, an area just behind King’s Cross that has been redeveloped beyond recognition over the last decade.

The shop - called Word on the Water - became a community touchstone.

“She’s got very broad skirts, this boat,” Screech joked.

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“The elderly or anyone feeling lonely often just stop by to bring us a cup of tea.

“We’re always up for a chat.”

After the New York Times ran an article on their David and Goliath success story, American tourists with a literary bent became a major source of income.

Several large chains went out of business, leaving a gap in the market for independent experts with an eye for curating interesting titles.

Word on the Water has become a cult favourite of London bookworms. Credit: ShutterstockWord on the Water has become a cult favourite of London bookworms. Credit: Shutterstock
Word on the Water has become a cult favourite of London bookworms. Credit: Shutterstock

However, in March 2019, the waters became rocky again.

When the pandemic forced indoor businesses to close, the duo were initially left without any income.

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“This is when we really relied on the community again, particularly when John contracted Covid,” Screech explained.

“He was locked down on board for three weeks.

“Our regulars and the local boaters brought him food and key supplies every day, while other people left bags of book donations outside the door.”

Screech set to work building an online shop for the first time.

In an attempt to bring some of the personal touch, for which they’re known, to the virtual market space they offered just two services.

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Customers can either ‘request a book’, or the more popular option of buying a box of eight to 10 pre-loved titles hand-picked by the duo.

“The money from that kept us eating, while a grant from the local council just about covered the rent,” Screech added.

However, since things have opened up again, Screech believes we’re living in something of a golden age for books.

“Time is a luxury that has been stolen from us by capitalism – lockdown gave it back,” he said.

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“Most people are literally addicted to the internet and completely overdosed during those first few months inside.

“It’s no surprise we’ve rediscovered the joy of the written word.”

Since reopening, the shop has done better than ever.

The barge was donated by a fellow book lover. Credit:  ShutterstockThe barge was donated by a fellow book lover. Credit:  Shutterstock
The barge was donated by a fellow book lover. Credit: Shutterstock

There has been a huge surge in demand for works by non-white writers, thanks to the Black Lives Matter movement, which Screech describes as “very heartening”, and books about reconnecting with nature.

“Some readers are yearning to leave the city, while others really reconnected with their love of the land by going on walks during lockdown,” he said.

“It’s emerging as a standalone genre in itself.”

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There has also been a huge increase of interest in non-fiction, which Screech puts down to distrust in the mainstream media and disinformation online.

“People want to do their own research,” he said.

“They know that in a book all the sources have been checked countless times.

“We’re selling a lot of highbrow political thinking such as Chomsky and Foucault.

“It feels as if people are educating themselves on the first principles and are just about ready to start dreaming of a new system.”

So what’s next for London’s favourite bookshop?

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“We’d love to buy a second barge and have it as an events space for readings and literary circles,” he said.

“We’re also keen to create a Word on the Water stage that could go round festivals.”

Given this duo’s track record of achieving their dreams despite all the odds, it would be wise to watch this space.

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