Riviera London review: A French escape that stumbles between tasty highlights
“Riviera offers moments of brilliance but it lacks consistency”
Green Park might not be short of restaurants, but Riviera stands out with its promise of French-inspired dining that blends old-world charm with a touch of modern flair.
It’s the sort of place that feels just as suited for a leisurely dinner; however, the food and service offer a mix of highs and lows, resulting in an uneven experience.
Things start on the right note with the bread basket paired with a whipped, homemade butter that's light and delicately salted, a small detail that sets the precedent for the other courses.
The Caesar salad that followed delivered on texture with crisp lettuce, crunchy croutons, and shards of Parmesan that worked in tandem to keep each bite as interesting as it was tasty.
The sea bass, served with an orange accent, felt ambitious but underwhelming due to a lack of balance, which left little reason to return to it.
Riviera’s signature cocktail, a milkshake-like concoction topped with a kernel of popcorn, was another redeeming feature for the restaurant, adding a subtle crunch and sweetness to each sip.
Far better was the hearty trofie pesto, coated in a sauce that could have been made in a home kitchen, even if it was ever so slightly undercooked.
For mains, Riviera’s steak was the undisputed highlight. Cooked to perfection, tender, juicy, and rich with flavour absorbed from the seasoned butter it was seared in, which enhanced rather than masked the meat.
Alongside came homemade fries, admirable in effort but hollow and overly crisp, missing that fluffy centre you crave.
The lavender crème brûlée made for a fragrant and sweet finish, though its richness was a bit overwhelming, leaving it difficult to finish as nice as it was.
Riviera has moments of brilliance but lacks consistency, which unfortunately holds it back from being the Green Park favourite it could be.
Unfortunately, the service lagged, with long waits between courses and no water readily available, which can leave you constantly asking for top-ups.
Also notable is the restaurant's polished décor, which gives it a sense of occasion without slipping into pretension.